What to see and where to go in Umbria
The capital of Umbria, Perugia, has a pleasant medieval centre, and is famous for making Italy’s best chocolate. This, too, is the home of Umbria Jazz, each summer. West of the city is Lake Trasimeno (Lago Trasimeno) which has excellent sailing, swimming and windsurfing. Castiglione del Lago makes a nice base on the lake. Head north from Perugia through Umbertide and Montone, and you reach Citta de Castello. This lovely little medieval town is unspoiled by tourism and has the Festival of Chamber Music each August. To the north-east is Gubbio, suffused with medieval charm, very pretty, and with the forest-clad Apennines to the rear. With a fine 13th century cathedral (duomo) reached by a funicular railway, and good galleries and museums, there are good restaurants and bars too - a charming town.
The medieval hilltown of Assisi is, of course, dominated by the Basilica of St Francis, and has the tourist numbers to match. The basilica, of course, suffered dreadfully during the earthquake of 1997. Busy yes, but Assisi is still a delight, and the approach to this hilltop metropolis is quite stunning. Spello is another stunning town to approach, the medieval, pink-stoned town set on terraces above the Vale of Spoleto. And don’t miss Montefalco, the ‘falcon’s mount’ or ‘balcony of Umbria’ with amazing views to the valley below. The hilltown of Trevi sits high, with perhaps the finest views in Umbria, surrounded by olive groves dropping to the valley floor.
Heading south we reach Spoleto, a charming old town, with some of Italy’s finest Romanesque churches, sitting within two kilometres of intact medieval walls. The south-eastern corner of Umbria comprises the Valnerina, an extraordinarily beautiful area of steep mountains, wooded valleys, and little upland villages. Much of the area is deserted, with emigration taking a heavy toll. Deserted farms are everywhere, and the only town of any size is Norcia. Heading south and the major town is Terni, badly bombed during World War II. Nearby are the hilltowns of Narni, Otricoli and Amelia, and the delightful fairy-tale-medieval hilltown of Todi.
Deruta and the Tiber Valley have some lovely hilltop villages including Viepri, San Teranzano and the larger town of Deruta, famous for ceramics. Over to the west, and near to Lake Bolsena in Tuscany, Orvieto is a must. It has a superb Gothic cathedral (duomo) one of the best in Italy. North of Orvieto is Citta della Pieve, birthplace of Perugino.
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